Something curious happened the moment I stepped off the plane. Arriving in Verona on a hot Friday afternoon. In that very moment, it was as if the heat had suddenly melted all my cares away. I was ready to spend 5 days in Italy. With only a GCSE Italian to rely on I was determined to fully immerse myself in the culture.
The mountain tops basked in foggy cloudy haze almost as if to totally take ownership of the place. The height and vastness of the Dolomites in the distance rendered me speechless. You almost couldn’t tell where mountain tips end and skies begin as the mountains reached up to the heavens as if craving the alms of the sun. The sheer beauty; little houses perched on the hills almost as if to tempt the winter avalanches that no doubt are probably in this steeply mountainous region of Italy. I was weakened by the beauty of the place that I just sat and enjoyed the serenity of the place as we moved from town to town before arriving in Malcesine. I grabbed my bag and followed the paths leading up the hill to the Cable cars on Malcesine…
Leaving the rain in London to the Diamond Jubilee celebrators my skin was bathed in this warm(dare I say hot) sun that immediately sends your mood in an appreciative happy dance. Desenzano was 29 Degrees of glowing rays and sits midway between Venice and Milan. With most of the hotels and restaurants perched by the lakeside, making it seem like you are on an island. Everything is within a few minutes walking distance. The ferry to the other towns sits nicely near the shops and you can also book small speed boats for 10Euros each person(4 people minimum). With plenty of shops if you are also aching for a little retail therapy or just sit and enjoy the freshly made pasta or pizza( You will immediately taste the difference compared to any pre-packed store bought usuals when you take Desenzano’s homemade!)
As you approach Sirmione the Scaliger Castle immediately catches your eye. Sirmione is a beautiful little town only 10 minutes on the boat from Desenzano and sits on a 2 mile-long peninsula. The Roman Poet Catullus had a villa here and was named after the Grotto of Catullus; the remains of a Roman Villa which supposedly belonged to Caius Catullus. As we wondered through the streets just following the faint scents of spices. My sister and I found ourselves in front of a pizzeria serving the most aromatic freshly stone baked pizzas. Hidden and away from the main tourist trails but still just a few meters from the lake it was perfectly situated. Still filled with curiosity and wondering the little streets we found ourselves the perfect little spot to sit and bask in the sun while we let the lunch settle. Two seats on the edge of the lake, as if they knew we were coming. Hidden in Via Porto Bianchi on the corner of Albergo Restorante. Shoes off and feet soaking in the clear lake water. So clear you can see the fish swimming near by and ducks and swans gracefully floating by. If you want to take relaxation further, Sirmione also harbors a spa house right on the lake; Terme Catullo.
You are greeted by the Scaligero Castle as the boat pulls into Malcesine. The 31-meter high pentagonal is clearly visible from a distance with a back drop of Monte Baldo Mountains. The castle entrance is hidden through stoned alleyways on the town. Malcesine is also where you can get a cable car and go to Monte Baldo for the panoramic views of Lake Garda. Unfortunately on the day we went there was limited visibility so there was no point to go all the way to Monte Baldo because it was covered by clouds. So we stopped half way at San Michele. Even with the slight haze the view from San Michele down the lake was truly amazing. Very picturesque…It would be even better on a clear sunny day.
Unless you have an unlimited budget and plenty of time then Verona is a fantastic base to stay and do day trips to Venice, Lake Garda Towns or even Milan. I may have cheated a little as I have stayed in Verona before. Last year I did a 4-city 7-day tour(Verona, Venice, Bergamo and Paris). Trains from Verona are fairly easy and frequent. Verona is also also unspoiled, rich with historical places to visit. Or if you just want to sit in authentic Italian cafes sipping coffee while people watching, then there are plenty of charm in Verona to keep you busy. Verona also has the world’s largest open amphitheater and Juliet’s House(think Shakespear!) or Casa di Julietta is also in Verona.
Lets talk Money!
- Transfer from Verona airport to was only 6euros
- Verona to Desenzano 3.70euros
- Desenzano to Milan 18.50euros
- Train from Cardona(Milan station) to Milan Malpensa Airport 11euros
- Verona to Venice 20euros(last year)
- Urban travelcard(day train ticket – Milan) 4.50euros
Where to stay: Lake Garda is huge so looking for a place to stay means first having to look at where you are going to base yourself and your plans for what other surrounding towns you will be visiting. For example, we stayed in Desenzano but visited Sirmione, Malcesine and another town that was a quick stop. For a full list of hotel options in Lake Garda here is a list covering all budgets from frugal to luxury budget accommodation in Lake Garda.
So have you been to Lake Garda before? What did you think of the towns around it either from your visit or from my post have those of you who haven’t been?